Ihla Grande - Brazil #2
For me this image of a floating bar off Praia dos Mangues encapsulates the spirit of Ishla Grande - unspoilt, fun and supremely laid-back. When mountainous jungle sweeps down onto white beaches towards clear, turquoise waters you have the most exquisite setting. It took me back to the wild beaches of Sierra Leone. And here too, you can combine beach-time with surfing, hiking and island-hopping by boat. And these islands are just 3 hours from Rio.
We waded out to this floating beach-bar after a days surfing and lounging on Lopes Mendes beach for a quick caipirinha and some fresh squid before catching our ferry back to the main island. But one aperitivo turned into two and when we looked up we saw our ferry had already loaded up and set sail without us! Instead we clambered into a water-taxi with the bar staff - a niftier journey back.
Places to stay on the main island Vila Abraao can be a bit sketchy - so you just have to hunt a bit and look for more hidden places, maybe set back from the beach or away from the main harbour.
We discovered the charming Casa Grande run by Yayoi, a quirky Brazilian of Japanese descent, and her partner Nilson. Their house has been eclectically restored and the lush garden is filled with every fruit tree imaginable.
Baskets of cashew nuts and peppercorns lie around the terrace drying in the sun waiting to be cracked open and roasted; we feasted on the mangos, papayas and jackfruit for breakfast along with delicious fennel cake and fresh coffee. We stayed in a loft room at the top of the house - you feel like you are sleeping in the canopy layer of a jungle and wake to the sounds of monkeys and birds.
Staying up in Casa Grande, away from the beach but in a much more quiet, tranquil setting made me realise you don't always have to be right by the sea to enjoy island holidays. We all got far more enjoyment away from the crowds, enjoying the garden, the peace and chatting to Yayoi and Nilson and learning about the island from them. This place was a fantastic find for us!
Yayoi and Nilson of Casa Grande
And then when it was time to leave the kids found the best way to get back to the ferry port….